The Gulf Islands in BC are all stunning to explore. There are too many Gulf Islands to count, but you can’t go wrong! Hornby and Denman are near the Comox Valley, just off the coast of Vancouver Island, and are the two that I recommend in this post.
Getting There
Having a vehicle will be an invaluable asset to you throughout your trip to either of these beautiful islands. The BC Ferry terminal at Buckley Bay on Vancouver Island welcomes vehicle passengers and is unique in that the ferries on this route are smaller in size and operate on a cable system. That’s right, three cables pull you across the straight of Georgia to Denman Island. Inside the ferry you’ll find a small seating area, but the majority of the space is dedicated to vehicle parking with killer views all around.
Click on any image to make it bigger (in the first image shown, you can see the three cables which pull the ferry).
Ferry Crossing
If you’re visiting from Vancouver, you can catch either the Horseshoe Bay or Tsawwassen ferry heading toward Nanaimo. Then, you’ll have to find your way to the Buckley Bay ferry terminal either by car or by booking a bus ticket in advance. The options are limited if you’re traveling on foot, but thankfully my partner and I were able to receive help from family who live in the area.
Thank goodness for family.
Get ready for a day of island hopping! Your first ride from Vancouver to Nanaimo will take ~1hr and 40min, your next ferry ride from Buckley Bay to Denman Island will take ~10mins, then your ride from the other side of Denman over to Hornby will be another 10mins. However, remember that you first have to make it all the way across Denman (the larger of the two islands) in order to catch your final ferry.
Near the Buckley Bay ferry terminal, you’ll find a gas station, subway, liquor store, and small grocery store. It’s a good idea to grab any last-minute things at these places that you predict you’ll need, as everything on the smaller islands tends to be more pricey in general.
Looking back toward the Hornby Island ferry terminal (Shingle Spit).
The final ferry from Denman Island East (Gravelly Bay) to Hornby Island (Shingle Spit) leaves at 6:35pm, and the final ferry traveling back to Denman from Hornby leaves at 6:00pm. This depends on the time of year, so be sure to double check the schedule(s).
It may sound complicated, but lots of locals do this trip (or a simplified version of it) daily when commuting to work on the islands. We met a local who has lived on Denman for the past 12 years and he expressed that it’s sometimes referred to as the “speedbump on your way to Hornby”. He’s admittedly not a fan of this common phrase, but it does seem like a fitting expression since the only way to get to Hornby is by first going across Denman.
Doing this trip is a sinch if you’re behind the wheel, but we decided to take our bikes and give it our best shot. It took us around 1hr 20mins to cross from one ferry terminal to the other on Denman, but we felt so proud of ourselves for being able to do it! There are multiple hills so if you decide to cycle across like we did be prepared for a challenge.
Additionally, if you’re traveling on foot, you may want to consider hitch-hiking a ride while on Denman or Hornby – risky though it may seem, while on the Gulf Islands this choice is seen as common and relatively harmless.
Hornby Island
Okay, so you’ve finally made it to Hornby. Congratulations! Getting here is half the fun, and it’s a gorgeous trip so soak up the scenery every chance you get.
Tribune Bay Beach
Our favourite part of the island that we got to see during our trip was the Ringside Market and of course Tribune Bay Beach. I say of course because Tribune Bay is this island’s claim to fame. It’s truly a magnificent beach that checks all the boxes; sand as far as the eye can see, the safety of being in a bay, close proximity to amenities, and tons of rocks and surrounding forests to explore.
I personally got a kick out of how many sand-dollars I saw at this beach, it was incredible! It reminded me of my time in Parksville on Vancouver Island as a child, and I hadn’t realized how much I had missed these stoic creatures. One thing to keep in mind about this beach is that it’s next door neighbour, Little Tribune Bay Beach, is clothing-optional. So don’t get the two mixed up!
Ringside Market
Tribune Bay is just down the road from the Ringside Market. This market hosts multiple local businesses and seems to be a haven of creativity and community.
The inner marketplace has picnic tables and a handwashing station. One of the tables has a checkerboard painted onto it with wooden playing pieces. The energy here is relaxed, making it a great place to take a break from exploring and gallivant the shops of Hornby.
You’ll be able to recharge with a baked good or a shopping spree. There’s also a bike shop if you’d like to rent a bike for an hour or so, and a CO-OP for any grocery needs etc. Despite there being a “no bikes” rule within the Ringside Market, cycling is encouraged on Hornby. Among the various shops and eating options in this market, you’ll also find a cute restaurant known as Forage Farm and Kitchen.
Forage Farm & Kitchen
This was the greatest brunch decision we’ve ever made. Okay, maybe I’m exaggerating, but do yourself a favor and check this place out if you have the time while exploring Hornby. Their menu is delicious AND nutritious. Isn’t that what we all dream of?? When healthy food actually tastes good it feels inspiring, like anything is possible.
Our meals at Forage went above and beyond our expectations; for $17.00 a plate we got a generous serving of high-quality natural ingredients that were also very aesthetically pleasing. Both our meals had flower petals added on top, how awesome is that!? We were thrilled at the level of skill and creativity each of our dishes exuded, as well as the fantastic flavors throughout.
To check out their tasty menu, click here. Keep in mind that breakfast options are only served until noon.
Bradsdadsland Campground
During our short stay on Hornby, we camped at Bradsdadsland campsite. The name may be odd, but this campground has everything you need to have an enjoyable visit while on Hornby. Located only a 10min bike ride from the ferry terminal, this campground is convenient and elevated above a pebble beach facing Denman.
You get great views of sunsets here and have two access points to the beach. The access points are fairly steep stairs that wind down to the ocean. There is a laundry room, showers, and flush toilets. The showers are coin-operated; one loonie will buy you two mins of shower time. There’s also an office that doubles as a small store where you can purchase practical items such as earplugs, toothpaste, etc and/or non-alcoholic drinks. Rates depend on your camping style (RV or tenting) and party size.
The campsites are roomy, reasonably private, and provide garbage bags to help with clean up while packing out. The ground is a mix of grass and gravel, so bring foams if you have ’em. Some of the RV campsites are fully serviced but others are not, so make sure to choose the right option for you when making your online booking.
Campgrounds like this tend to fill up pretty quickly once the hotter weather rolls in, so try to plan in advance. This campsite also has a pretty strict recycling policy and provides a nice recycling sorting area where you can dispose of your materials accordingly.
Our Biking Trip Across Islands
We were grateful to be able to borrow a couple of bikes from family for this trip, but it was tough with all the hills! Ebikes would be a much better fit for anyone who wants a more leisurely ride, we’ll be sure to keep them in mind for next time.
When cycling back to the Hornby Island (Shingle Spit) ferry terminal from the Ringside Market, we basked in the beauty of Mt. Geoffery Escarpment Provincial Park. This park is full of hiking and biking trails, one of which offers a seaside riding route to the ferry terminal. There are still hills here, but not too many. For how gorgeous the setting is we felt it was well worth the effort. You pass farmland and a marina full of sailboats, it’s truly beautiful and feels like a storybook scene at any given turn.
Beautiful Hornby
Denman Island
As mentioned before, our ride from one end of Denman to the other took around an hour and twenty mins. We took Lacon Rd, turned onto Mcfarland connecting to the final leg of the journey along East Rd. We feel it was less challenging than if we had chosen to take Denman Rd (you’ll come to a fork where you’ll have to choose either Lacon or Denman Rd). On our return trip home, we ended up hitching a ride with a kind local with a truck.
In our defense, one of the pedals had fallen off our bike and our make-shift solution wasn’t going to cut it for the entire ride back.
We didn’t get to spend as much time on this island (the larger of the two), but it definitely left a good impression! When you arrive off the ferry there is a small town center just up the road where you can grab a coffee at Abraxas Cafe & books, pick up some groceries at the general store, or even check out the local real estate at a unique real estate office.
Cycling across Denman was a grand adventure, suitable for anyone in reasonable physical shape. The forests and ocean views coupled with the quiet roads and chirping birds will have you feeling like you’re in a truly special place. You’re likely to see soaring eagles, grazing deer, and fenced cows or horses during your stay. A large portion of Denman is made up of beautiful farmlands.
On both islands you’ll find a collection of vineyards, at least one of which you can choose to camp at (Isla De Lerena Vineyard on Hornby Island). We didn’t manage to fit a wine tasting in, but make sure to include it on your list of things to do while visiting Denman and Hornby. You’ll also notice small sale stands at the end of various driveways on both islands, offering things such as baked goods, flowers, fresh produce, and more. Carrying some cash on hand would be useful if you’d like to support these locals.
PSA: The bus service on Denman doesn’t run on Tuesdays & Wednesdays.
From our experience, the people on Denman and Hornby are super nice and there is a clear appreciation for the community. Both places were wonderful to visit, and we’d like to go again because we didn’t have time to see everything! There’s always something new to see when traveling to such beautiful islands as these.
I hope this post has answered a few of your questions about Denman and Hornby, and inspired you to keep them in mind for your future travels.
Cheers
Thoughts to Writings 