Welcome to the South of France! Everyone knows it’s gorgeous here, and that the coastline is peppered with must-see cities and charming towns, but let me tell you about a place you’ve likely never heard of; Île Sainte-Marguerite off the coast of Cannes.
If you’re fortunate enough to be traveling in the South of France and exploring areas such as Cannes, you may want to add this charming island to your itinerary. Being a city that is known for hosting one of the most famous film festivals in the world, Cannes can get crowded with a diverse crowd of admirers of the craft and even the filmmakers themselves.
You never know who you may rub shoulders with in a place like that, if you’re there at certain times of the year especially (May). This being said, the glamour and clamor of such a unique hot spot can become overwhelming at times!
Île Sainte-Marguerite
Île Sainte-Marguerite offers a beautiful retreat from the noise while simultaneously maintaining a close proximity to the festivities. It’s a perfect little get-away for those who enjoy being out in nature and appreciating the history of a place. You can see numerous yachts scattered between the island and Cannes, with luscious forests, meadows, and the clear blue ocean enveloping you in a sense of peace and quiet.
Make sure to grab a pamphlet that contains all the information about the island you’ll need to know (including a helpful map) when you purchase your tickets on the mainland!
Traversing the paths and trails is truly a wonderful way to spend a few hours. You could walk a lop-sided circle around the island in around an hour and a half to two hours if you really wanted to. However, it’s more than likely you’ll want to stop several times to take photos, or have a little picnic. You’ll pass by a couple of rocky beaches, as well as the Étang du Batéguier; a beautiful lagoon.
There is also a sailing club as well as a stunning free-entry Eco-museum that lies beneath the ocean waves off the coast of the island. Écomusée sous-marin par Jason deCaires Taylor is an underwater art exhibit of 6 enormous sculptures which were created in 2021 by Jason deCaires Taylor. They are only accessible to view if you are a strong swimmer and preferably have some scuba gear.
This image is borrowed from the Eco-Museums official website.
Renting a boat may be a nice way to tie in this feature of the island with your other adventures, but make sure to moor a proper distance from the site in order to keep the waters safe for swimmers. My partner and I didn’t end up being able to see the sculptures for ourselves, but someday we hope to return and make another beautiful day of it.
Getting There
While millionaires may choose to escape the throngs of tourists by chartering their luxurious yachts, the rest of us can purchase a ferry ticket to the modest yet beautiful Île Sainte-Marguerite. Tickets include your journey there and back, and cost ~50euro for two people depending on where you’re departing from. My partner and I decided to depart from Golfe Juan which is just slightly East of Cannes toward it’s neighbouring city, Antibes.
You can depart from Cannes itself as well as a few other ports along the coast. All the details such as price and schedules can be found here on the official ferry site. The only way to purchase your ticket is in person at a ticket booth as no online reservations are taken. The ferry itself is small though accommodating, including an upper and lower deck. The upper deck is completely exposed to the elements, while the lower deck is closed, and both have ample seating available making it a comfortable journey.
While you cross the Ligurian Sea (part of the Mediterranean Sea), you’ll see the island in the distance. It’s only a few miles away from the mainland, so enjoy the quick and scenic voyage.
I suggest taking a morning ferry over to the island so you can make the most of your time there, and to also avoid the risk of missing the final boat returning to the mainland. Accommodations on Île Sainte-Marguerite are very limited, but not altogether unheard of. Most of the island remains uninhibited and wild, with established pathways and trails throughout but not much else aside from its beautiful foliage and stunning ocean views.
The sloped path up from the ferry dock is gradual and suitable for strollers and wheelchairs, however, there will be some limitations of course with some of the terrain. If you keep to the main pathways you should be fine with your wheels, but you can also expect some uneven sections closer to the shoreline.
Although most of the island maintains its rugged wild side, it also has quite a bit of history to explore. The heart of which can be found at Fort Royal de L’Île Sainte-Marguerite off to your left when you disembark from your ferry. But, before you wander over to the old fortress, you may be in need of a refreshment. Thankfully one of the first things you’ll come across is a concession that offers a variety of beverages and some food options as well.
It’s nothing too fancy, but it’s a god-send to ward off any hangry-ness so you can fully enjoy your exploration of the island. There are a couple of restaurants found on the island as well, but we’ll discuss those later on.
Fort Royal de L’Île Sainte-Marguerite
Regular admission is €6.50, while post-secondary students are granted a discounted rate of €3.50. A perk is that entry is FREE for children under the age of 18 which is a pretty generous age range. For students, you don’t need to have your student ID on you, just anything that proves that you’re enrolled in classes. So, get creative if you’d like to save a few euros!
The fortress feels like walking onto a movie set, it’s beautiful. Within the fortress walls is an archaeology museum where you can learn about the infamous “Iron Mask” or ‘Masque de Fer’ and how his origin story lies within the very building you’re standing in. Admission to the museum is included in your entry to the fortress itself, so I highly recommend checking it out!
Île Sainte-Marguerite used to be used as a prison for the criminals of France between the 17th and 19th centuries, a similar idea to that of Alcatraz though on a smaller scale.
Food Options
One unique feature of the island is that it has a old style water fountain where you can fetch yourself a free paper cup of water. It took us a minute to figure out how to get the water to flow, but thankfully we did with a little help from a fellow tourist. The fountain is nearby Glacier and Le Lerõnos – both of which feel more like concession stands than restaurants as they serve fast food and quick comforts such as ice cream, baked goods, paninis, and beer.
If you’re hoping to find something a little more sophisticated for your island outing, La Differnnce has you covered. Or there is La Guérite, a very fancy restaurant that makes for a good event venue, however currently it appears to be temporarily closed according to Google Maps.
France has the BEST baked goods!
One of the best rules of thumb while traveling, is to bring your own snacks if you can. This will help your budget and feel so satisfying in the moment. It pays off to be prepared! Even if you pick up a single baguette from a local boulangerie before boarding your ferry, it could be enough to reduce your spending while exploring such a beautiful island.
A Few More Details
The final ferry back from Île Sainte-Marguerite is anywhere between 5:00pm – 6:30pm depending on which season you’re visiting in. During the summer, the final departure is typically around 6:30pm, with earlier final departures being in the off season.
As far as washroom facilities go, I won’t sugar-coat it. I’ve seen worse, but be prepared! The washrooms found in Fort Royal de L’Île Saint-Marguerite are pretty standard, though the public facilities along the main path are pretty rough around the edges. There was no distinction between men and women stalls, and more to the point there was no light to see with. This isn’t a complaint, just a forewarning and a common aspect to exploring more remote places like this.
Remember when you’re exploring somewhere special like Île Sainte-Marguerite to bring any garbage back with you. You’ll soon find out that there are no garbage cans found on the island, as they expect you to pack out what you pack in. Please be respectful to the museum staff and island caretakers, and to the island itself. It’s got a long history that deserves to be regarded with curiosity but also with care and consideration.
Set Sail
I hope you enjoy your time in the South of France, and specifically at the beautiful Île Sainte-Marguerite! It’s 100% worth the detour from the mainland, and can offer a sliding scale of comfort depending on your situation and goals for the day. Do you have a boat to rent or will you be on foot? Shall you indulge in a fancy meal or have a picnic on a cliff side overlooking the ocean? Will you spend the entire day exploring the island, or spend a token few hours at the Eco-museum? Sky’s the limit people!
This island has it all; seclusion from hoards of tourists, ample opportunity to escape into and appreciate nature, a depth of history to discover, and stunning views for as far as the eye can see. Something for everyone, and every budget. I hope you get a chance to enjoy this special, and little known place; Île Sainte-Marguerite.
Thoughts to Writings 